Wednesday, October 04, 2006

The Wino Files

The Wino Files

Recently had the occasion to pull out a couple of Russian River Valley Zins from the Alegria Vineyard, made by two different makers, Rosenblum and Ridge. The Rosenblum was a '97 and the Ridge was a '96 (late picked).

It was interesting to find that, though they'd been stored side by side, the Ridge wine had aged much more gracefully than the Rosenblum, which, while still drinkable, was past its prime. The Ridge '96 Alegria was still power-packed, jammy and delicious - perhaps because it was late picked? I was surprised to find the Rosenblum had a higher alcohol content (15.8 vs 15.6). The Ridge was not really sweet, which I guess is the difference between late-picked and late-harvest? I'm just guessing here. Anyone else know? It had a residual sugar at bottling of only .1%, by the label. I think I read somewhere that we don't perceive a wine as "sweet" below .2%.

I'd love to get my hands on more of that Ridge Alegria - but I think the odds are slim with only 42 barrels produced. :-(

Well, kids, I have to say this will likely be my last posting for a while. I have been delinquent in getting this one published, and I am not drinking much wine these days as I am now 15 weeks pregnant...

Swirl girl signing off for now...

Friday, July 07, 2006

Note to Self re: Muscat

I had one of my least favorite experiences last night... Pulling a wine from the cellar and finding it had been there too long. In this case, it was a 2002 Husch Muscat Canelli. It was still drinkable but had lost all of the signature, yummy apricot-y fruit of a Muscat. Drink 'em YOUNG!

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Wine Week in The Woodlands Grand Tasting

In a dramatic improvement over our experience at the Wine Week Champagne tasting, we found the Grand Tasting to be one of the best wine tasting events we've attended.

The layout was key - probably 100 producers were spread out through the room and interspersed with local restaurants sampling wine-friendly foods. I think I learned as much about the Houston restaurant scene as anything.

There was a stage to one side featuring entertaining presentations from top Louisiana chefs, much of the event being a fund-raiser for businesses still struggling to recover from the 2005 hurricane season.

And of course, there was the WINE! The producers were showcasing their best, many pouring $30 bottles and bringing out the really high-end bottles for those of us who were really interested (which I was!).

Best of Tasting: Ravenswood's 2004 Dickerson Zinfandel, a dark, intense, brooding sort of Zin. Appropriate, as I was told that it was a memorial vintage for the vineyard owner, who was killed in last year's tsunami in Indonesia. Find it at http://www.ravenswood-wine.com/wines/dickerson.asp

Worst Surprise: Kim Crawford Pinot Noir. I was excited to try some Kim Crawford wines, as I see them on a lot of menus. My only note by this wine name was one word, in all caps: "NO!". Kim Crawford also poured an unoaked Chard which was, as one might expect, very, very light. No citrus tinge (which I personally don't care for), but not a lot else to back it up.

Best Surprise: Rodney Strong. Okay, this was the last winery I visited, so possibly both my palette and my judgment were a little off by then. But I tasted a meritage called Symmetry and was very impressed. I am going to go to a winemaker dinner they are holding in the area soon and check them out further.

Other notes: I went to this tasting in search of the perfect Chardonnay. I usually drink red, but recently I've had occasion to order white wine in restaurants several times and have been universally disappointed. My top Chardonnay picks from the event:
- Merryvale Chardonnay (didn't write down the vintage, but most were tasting '04s), which had lots of oak, not much acidity, not much citrus, and was overall a solid choice to go with anything EXCEPT GARLIC, which clashes horribly with oaky wines.
- Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve - this one retails for $14 at Sam's, and I was surprised to like it as well as I did. It was fruit forward, with some mellow French oak. I liked this one well enough that I went to Sam's and bought a couple of bottles.
- Matanzas Creek - this one didn't finish as well as it started, but it started out to be PHENOMENAL.

Stay tuned for more on Rodney Strong as the story unfolds.

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Independence Eve

Living in CA, I became very accustomed to the 4th of July as a day off work that I enjoyed immensely as an excuse to go hiking, or to the beach, or just to cook a really amazing dinner that took several hours to prepare. The first year I came to Texas, I was amazed.

Ever since, as much as my husband and I travel, we try very hard to be in Texas for the 4th, and last night I was reminded of why. We attended the Independence Eve celebration hosted by the Houston Symphony in The Woodlands, TX. For those of you living in blue states, that would be the 3rd of July.

It's hosted at the Cynthia Woods Mitchell Pavillion, an outdoor concert venue that seats more than 16,000 people. Every year, The Pavillion is at capacity for this wonderful celebration.

When the event's organizers opened by recognizing our troops, past and present, the crowd rose in a yelling, cheering standing ovation. Michael Krajewski, Houston's favorite conductor, kicked off the event with a fanfare and then the national anthem. In California, I always felt silly as one of a few with my hand over my heart at the baseball games, but here, the crowd again rose as one, every hat off, every hand on heart, every voice raised in passionate song.

The Symphony then conducted a magical one-hour tour of American composers, some recognized, others not, with just enough commentary to remind us all of how our country has evolved over the centuries. The squirming 8 year-olds beside me stopped wriggling and complaining and were at rapt attention within 15 minutes.

In the second "half", as Krajewski called it, the Symphony brought on the popular favorites, kicking off with The Yellow Rose of Texas. The "American Sing-Along" was meant to be one song near the end, but no one let that hold them back. From intermission on, the crowd was sparkling with energy and participation. They went wild when The Woodlands' own Will Makar, a local high school junior of recent American Idol fame, came to the stage. I have to admit, despite my skepticism, that the kid can sing. He hasn't quite learned that the world doesn't rotate around American Idol, urging the crowd to give credit to the symphony as though it was his own band and absolutely cracking up an attractive violinist when he stopped to shake her hand and flirt on the way out. But he can sing, and he did bring the crowd to their feet. In fact, when he sang God Bless the USA, the entire crowd was on its feet, waving flags and pumping fists. They absolutely exploded during the always-popular Service Medley, when service personnel from each branch of the military are asked to rise as their song is played. It always gives me goosebumps to see them all stand at attention with pride as the crowd gives them the recognition they deserve.

The close for the event is traditionally the 1812 Overture, accompanied by cannons fired by actors in period military costume. One year, Krajewski tried to play something different, explaining that 1812 was not our war, and that Tchaikovsky was not American. The next year, with no comment at all, it was back. As the music closed last night, an enormous, stage sized flag was unfurled, and the crowd absolutely roared.

If all of this sounds sort of hokey to you, I will admit that in the first year, I could not bring myself to fully participate. I sat as an observer, watching the rest of the crowd indulge in a pleasurable frenzy of patriotism. I thought about how people in San Francisco have too much pride to let loose this way (Bay to Breakers aside). And then I decided that this is San Francisco's loss. The next year, I sang.

I challenge every one of you to enjoy the 4th of July some year in Texas. It will change the way you see the holiday.

Whether or not you support the actions and attitudes of the politicians currently in office, they are not what defines the United States of America. They will be gone in 4 years, or 8, and hopefully 200 years from now, your great-grandchildren will still be free to vote, run for office, and complain about government policy without fear of reprisal.

But I digress. This is a wine blog. Accordingly, I should note that we picked up a bottle of 2004 Mondavi Select Central Coast Chardonnay at the event. It was simple, buttery, and very cold - a perfect wine for a hot night at the symphony.

Happy Independence Day!

Friday, June 30, 2006

Wine of the Week: 2003 Frank Family Vineyards Zin

Holy fruit n jam, Batman, this is one heck of a Zin! I enjoyed this with some co-workers and a pizza this week, and was just blown away by the intensity of it.

This is definitely a red wine you could happily sit and sip by itself - although it did go just fine with a pepperoni pizza. It was so rich and fruity that it almost crossed the line toward a late-picked intensity.

Picked this one up same-day at BevMo in Simi Valley - so it's definitely one you can buy now, and with this amount of fruit, and practically absent tannins, I don't think I'd put it away. And why would you? This is an amazing wine to drink TONIGHT.

(BTW - on June 12, I wrote up a '95 Larkmead Zin very favorably. This is actually the same winery and I believe the same winemaker, but the winery is under new ownership.)

Comments Problem

Hey fellow winos -

It's come to my attention that visitors have not been able to comment on posts in the blog for a while. Getting this fixed and contemplating a move to a different provider. Stay tuned as we overcome these technical difficulties.

Thanks for your patience!

Friday, June 23, 2006

Banfi Sparkling Wine Tasting a Bust

This event was off to a bad start from the moment I walked in the door.

The marketing blurb about the event read as follows: "Join National Wine Educator Sharron McCarthy and Kirby's Chef Daniel Nemec as they show participants via taste bud explosion why bubbly and chocolate make the perfect pair."

This did not fully represent the experience we had, which included highlights such as:
- Sign in and get two drink tickets.
- Stand in line to choose between three sparkling wines from the same producer, poured by people with no time or inclination to explain about the wine or winery.
- Walk over to a table of cheese and truffles and help yourself. Be careful. There are no utensils, so the goat cheese may get messy.

So, realizing that I was already a little put off by the time I got my wine, you may wish to take this review with a grain of salt.

The first wine we tried was the Banfi Proseco NV. Upon prompting, the server explained that we'd find it dry and crisp - much like a good white wine. We found it to be off-dry, featuring tropical fruit, peach and pear flavors. It matched fairly well with the blue cheese. Carl said it did seem like a sweet white wine that happened to sparkle. I agreed, especially since the bubbles dissipated pretty quickly. Had to be a carbon dioxide shot. But, if you like off-dry sparklers, this is probably the best of the bunch.

Second was the Banfi Lambrusco, which had a gorgeous dark ruby color. It was seriously grapey, almost like a sparkling Welch's would be.

At this point, we observed that actually the whole red wine and chocolate thing is over-rated (probably because the Lambrusco resembled a red wine more than a typical champagne). I have a theory that when you eat a very rich cheese or dessert, it basically coats your tongue with the yummy stuff that makes it so rich (I hate to say it, but "fat"), meaning that you don't properly taste the wine at all. Just a theory - post a comment and tell me what you think!

Lastly, we tasted the Rosa Regale. This is a really popular sparkling wine right now. I see it everywhere, and had tried it before (at Epcot, actually, on New Year's Eve - they serve it in "Italy"). This is a sweet one with a pretty, cherry red color. I will concede that this is a "fun" wine and has its place. It reminds me of a wine called Gamay Rouge by V. Sattui that we fondly refer to as "the bubblegum wine". It's just a fun, outdoors in the summer, cotton candy type of wine that no respectable oenophile would admit to liking, but probably has enjoyed at some point. Of all of these wines, the Rosa Regale was the only one that really complemented the chocolate (and the chocolate, mind you, was phenomenal).

I always like to end on a positive note. Perusing the wine list at Kirby's, I found it very robust and fairly well-priced, with a lot of unusual selections I have not seen in TX before. Possibly worth a try!

Thursday, June 22, 2006

Clos Pegase Mitsuko's VIneyard Circle Reserve Chardonnay - 1998

I just love Copper River Salmon season. If I do say so myself, I prepared an amazing meal last night, featuring salmon with a dill cream sauce topped with crab. We paired it with the Clos Pegase Mitsuko's Vineyard Circle Reserve Chardonnay from 1998. Now, I am always a fan of this wine, but this one has been sitting around a little longer than I generally keep a Chard.

It doesn't seem to have been harmed much, if at all, by the long wait. I wasn't very optimistic at first. The color was a darker gold than I prefer to see. And on the first sip, it did seem to have lost too much of the fruit that made it charming when it was younger and seemed like it had become too oak-dominated. With the second sip, though, I started to notice other flavors that balanced out the oak very nicely; cream, butterscotch, and maybe a hint of a peachy flavor.

Definitely not your floral, fruity version of a Chardonnay, but very, very good. I wish I had more to enjoy!

Monday, June 19, 2006

1995 RustRidge Cabernet - not at all "rusty"

Wow, this weekend we had a great wine experience. Popped a steak on the grill and pulled out a dusty cabernet from a long-ago trip to Napa.

RustRidge is an interesting winery/bed and breakfast/ranch located in Chiles Canyon not terribly far from Napa. We found them at a ZAP silent auction when I bid on a dinner package at the winery. Frankly, I'd never heard of RustRidge, but it was a good price and I do love to bid... so the rest is history!

We took a pair of friends and spent the weekend at the B&B. Susan, the proprietor, made us an amazing dinner paired with RustRidge wines. Add to an incredible culinary experience some stables of race horses and the earthy, practical nature of the owners, stable hands and other staff, and we were in love. We had the rare opportunity to take a ride on a couple of the horses (I understand this is no longer allowed), who were retired racers and some of the most responsive horses I've had the pleasure of riding.

Don't get me wrong - RustRidge B&B isn't for everyone. It's rustic. When we drove up, we had our doubts. But wow, what a diamond in the rough.

Which brings me to Saturday's dinner. Steak, and a '95 RustRidge Cabernet. This wine was good young, so I was a little worried we had waited too long. A beautiful, dark purplish color was a good sign. Swirled, inhaled - and got a noseful of candied cherry that I didn't want to stop smelling. So far so good... and we weren't disappointed when we tasted. Tangy cherry flavor and a hint of spiciness complemented the still evident American oak. Not really very acidic at all. Would be delicious on its own but was also great with our steak spiced with Prudhomme's Meat Magic.

Another win for the wine closet. Makes me wonder if we will ever spring for an expensive wine fridge.

Monday, June 12, 2006

Pleasant Surprise in a '95 Zin

We just shared a wonderful bottle of 1995 Larkmead Zinfandel from Frank-Rombauer winery.

The day we bought this bottle, I felt as if I were in an old movie. We went to the tasting room of Hans Kornell cellars, a maker of sparkling wine (by the way, a favorite of Marilyn Monroe - you can see a bottle of Kornell on the yacht in "Some Like it Hot"). We fell in love with several of their sparkling wines and spent way too much money for what we were making at the time. They could see we were in a buying mood, I guess, and they gave us a long look and asked if we liked red wine. What's that question about what bears do in the woods?

Anyway, we found ourselves in the back room of the winery tasting some still wines. The Larkmead wines didn't even have labels on them yet (and, it turns out, wouldn't for some time, due to a legal dispute). They were also pouring some Rombauer wines, as the two are in some way connected. We purchased some of this '95 Zin, a '95 Sangiovese (our first American Sangiovese), and tried to buy some of the Rombauer Cab. At that point, Dennis, the manager, cut us off. He had seen our 1988 Oldsmobile in the parking lot, I can only guess, and told us that "we didn't really need that wine." Good call, Dennis. It took several months to pay off the Visa after that adventure.

The ownership of the winery has changed; both Hans Kornell and Larkmead are now Frank Family Vineyard. So far, it looks like the winemaking hasn't changed, but I still cherish the old bottles.

The wine is amazing and has held up well. It is very dark and rich, with a slightly musty aroma. It's dominated by dark fruit - cherry and berries - and hasn't lost its depth and structure with time. The only thing that seems to have suffered is the bouquet. Perhaps the bottle was corked, because the nose just seemed "off."

Served it with spaghetti and hot italian sausage - yum! Great night.

Russian River Pinot Noir in Sweden

Last week I had the unlikely pleasure of dining at an amazing restaurant in Gothenburg, Sweden called FiskeKrogen (http://www.fiskekrogen.se/start_engelsk.html) on the recommendation of my husband's uncle, a local.

While the food was all incredible (small plates of very artistically arranged delicacies), one of the biggest surprises was the recommendation of the sommelier of a Russian River Pinot Noir to go with our halibut (I can never refrain from the "just for the halibut" joke...).

The wine, a 2002 Marimar Estate Pinot Noir, was a real find on a European wine list. I expressed my surprise that the sommelier would recommend an American wine. "Being American," I said, "I sort of expected to be drinking European wines in Europe." He shrugged and said (flinching only a little) "You make very good wines there." OK, oenophiles, how long did we wait to hear a world-class European sommelier make that comment without a six shooter pointed at his/her favorite Bordeaux?

As an aside, I checked, and that Pinot is available for purchase online at http://www.marimarestate.com/. Only 4492 cases produced. It was delicious, dark and full-bodied, but not too heavy to go with a light fish such as halibut with a fairly delicate lobster sauce.

I would highly recommend the restaurant. The food genre reminded me quite a bit of the French Laundry in Yountville, CA. The atmosphere was eclectic. The white table cloths and elegant service would be appropriate for a special occasion, but I also felt comfortable wearing jeans.

Welcome to The Wino Files

Why a wine blog? There are some obvious, respectable reasons... I can use this as a way to share wonderful memories with my friends, to let others know about some great wines out there, to answer some of the questions my friends ask me about wine (the Wino File's prior incarnation was a phone hotline, straight to my cell phone). All of those things are true.

But the sad truth is that I have less short-term memory than my cat. This pre-dates my drinking days, by the way, so please don't blame the wine industry. I don't want to be the impetus for the next wave of product liability lawsuits.

I sometimes refer to my memory as the 3-minute, re-windable tape (with apologies to readers who are too young to remember cassette tapes). As an aside, I am somewhat horrified that people who don't remember cassette tapes can now legally drink, but I've done the math, and it's true.

Anyway, the 3-minute re-windable tape theory mandates that if I want to remember something, I'd be wise to write it down. So this is my log-book, as much as anything, of my experiences in the world of wine. I look forward to sharing them with you.